Ok so here we go over a month ago S, Little Lady
and I went on a trip to Jerash with George and Allison. It was 95 degrees out.
Don't even ask me what that is in Celsius we are still trying to adjust to that
but we do know when it is near 40 that is hot. lol We only got slightly lost.
As in we turned at a sign that said Jarash instead of Jerash. Now you may look
at that and say duh it is not the same thing but since our street has one name
and 6 different spellings (there would be more except there are only 6 street
signs) it seemed possible this was spelled funny too. We immediately turned
around when we were going away from the city. After we parked and figured out
how to get into the place (Little did we realize you had to venture through the
bazaar to get in) We were there!!! It was only 1/2 a JD each because we have
our residency cards. WOOOOHOOO for being a resident of Jordan. Otherwise it
would have been 12 JD. Yeah they kinda stick it to the tourist. We walk in and
immediately have to climb the stairs. I tell you this country is not
handicap assessable anywhere. Anyways continuing on. We climb the stairs and we
are looking at what is the Arch of Triumph or as our map has it Hadrian's Arch.
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| Hadrian's Arch- built to commemorate the visit of Emperor Hadrian in 129 AD |
It is pretty impressive huh?
Yep I thought so. It had beautiful carving and details
that I cannot imagine what they would have looked like when they were new. It
is hard to believe that all of the stonework is still so beautiful and
distinguishable today (although there have been restorations made in places). I guess when you only have a month or so of rain a year
it helps but I would have thought the amount of sand whipping around in the air
would have eroded it more.
Once you walk through the gate you walk past the
chariot race hippodrome. The hippodrome is 245 m Long and 52m wide and could seat 15,000. and as I have told you in the past we were saddened to
discover that because it was EID they did not have the chariot races.
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| The back wall of the Hippodrome- |
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You
continue walking past the long oval tracked hippodrome and eventually find the
place where they are collecting your tickets. This is good I suppose, I mean it
is nice to know you actually had to pay to get in. We walk through The South
Gate (130 ad) and along the city walls and the real ruins start. The city walls were built in the beginning of the 4th century. The walls of the city that are visible now are from the byzantine era and are 3,456 m long.
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| Part of a 2nd century Olive Press |
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| View to the right of the tunnel |
We walked through a tunnel and past the guy
selling “ cameras, memory cards, hats, sunglasses” (yep read that with an
accent and you will no what we heard). Then we climbed more stairs and we were
in the Forum or Oval Plaza depending on the map you are using.
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| Random stone details. |
The oval plaza is an oval that is 90 x 80m surrounded by columns from the 1st century
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| Center colum/ fountain space |
In the center there is
a tall column that marks the spot of a fountain from 7th century ad. This is where they do music and
things during the Jerash festival that happens in July and the column now carries the Jerash Festival Flame.
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| Looking back from the Forum onto the tunnel and city walls |
Once you are done in
the Forum you can exit and walk along the colonnaded walkway or Cardo Maximus.
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| The Cardo is 800m. It was remolded in the late 2nd century and again in 170ad. |
It is a
large walkway that was once a street with columns on both sides. You can
actually see chariot tracks left in the stone. In the past this street would have been lined with shops and would have been considered the main street of Jerash. It is a bit of a bumpy path and
we were wise not to bring a stroller along. Periodically along the route you
are looking at different ruins. Ok actually the entire place is ruins so you
never really stop looking at them. You just hop along and see a bunch of
stairs, pillars, doorways, etc. Here are many things we saw along the path.
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| The Cathedral |
The Cathedral was originally a 2nd century Roman Temple of Dionysus and then it was rebuilt in the 4th century as a Byzantine church. Through the door way is a set of stairs and at the top of those stairs is the shrine of St. Mary
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| Church of Saint Theodore |
The Church of Saint Theodore was built in 496 AD
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| The Nyphaeum |
an ornamental fountain that was built in 191 AD and dedicated to nymphs. Water would cascade through 7 carved lions heads into small basins on the sidewalk. The large basin in front was an addition from the Byzantines.
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| Propylaeum |
The propylaeum is entrance to the Processional way leading to the temple of Artemis.
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| The North Gate |
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| Close up of the architecture |
Once we reached the North Gate we knew we needed
to head up the path. Now the one strange thing about visiting these sites in
Jordan is that there are no ropes, no security guards, no park rangers telling
you “stay off the ruin”. There are not even signs saying it. So you are free to
hop up and touch anything you like. You want to climb the thousand steps (ok I
don’t know if it is 1,000 steps but there are a lot in this place) then go
right ahead no one is stopping you. It is kinda strange to be able to just hop
on history and get a real feel for it. This is one thing that would never
happen in the US and yet these sites are still here. In the middle of a city
but still here and seemingly doing well.
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| The North Gate was built in 115 AD |
So at this point we were still under the
impression that there were chariot races starting in 20 minutes and we were on
the far side of the city. SO we race through and skip past a bunch of stuff
until we get back to the hippodrome.
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| Temple of Artemus |
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| View from the overlook |
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| One last look at the Oval Plaza/ Forum |
We sit in the cool breeze for maybe 10
minutes and when the race was supposed to start and there were no chariots in
sight we decided it was time to go home. We were hot, hungry and extremely
tired. I also had extremely dirty feet. Instead of tan lines I had dirt lines
because I wore sandals. Lol We made it to the car and gave Little Lady a
bottle. Once she was finished we piled in the car and drove over to the
Lebanese house for lunch. OH MY STARS!!! This place was great. We spend I think
30 JD on a lunch for the 4 adults that was amazing. We had grape leaves,
hummus, fried kibbe, chicken tawouk, a meat platter (varying kebab meats), and
pita, along with drinks. This place even has a small indoor playground for the
kids. It was great. The one downside is do not be in a hurry. We were there for
around 2 hours. It took forever to get someone to take our order and then we
had to wait for the food but it was worth the wait. Once our bellies were full
and we were all ready for a food coma we drove home. Yep perfect plan huh? S did
a great job driving and it is only 40 minutes. We arrived back and came home to
take a long nap and just rest. The heat really takes it out of ya.
Next time we go I think we will get the tour guide. In our rush to see the non exsistant chariots we decided to take the map and just wing it. I know we missed things and we may even have read it wrong who knows. So in the future I am sure we will see Jerash again and have a much better clue as to what went on. Oh and please notice that there is not a cloud in the sky. We have been in Jordan since the end of May and we can count the number of clouds we have seen with the exception of one day that was actually cloudy but that is only 4 maybe 5 days since we have been here.